Wednesday, July 4, 2012

What We Are Not


There were tears at Yad VaShem and hush-voiced, angry curses. Yad VaShem is a low highpoint of the trip. The weight of the stories, the gruesome photos, the video testimonies of survivors and even the building’s design are unbearably attractive and repulsive at the same time. The place is packed with guided groups of young, Israeli soldiers brought here as part of their training. They embody an answer to the question of what we should do with our feelings about the Holocaust. “Never Again,” can mean: never again will we be unarmed and unable to defend ourselves.  The image from “Eagles Over Auschwitz” of IAF attack jets flying over the death camp says the same thing. The building’s design shares another message: the best response to the Holocaust is simply to live here in Israel. The exhibition starts with projected images of Jewish life in Europe before the Holocaust: smiling faces, parties, culture, religion. From outside, however, one can see that the screening room is a section of building that hangs precipitously over a cliff with no support underneath. The end of the museum opens widely onto a balcony overlooking the Jerusalem hills. It says that our story ends not with utter destruction but renewed life; with real houses filled with Jews living normally in their ancient homeland. The living land and people of Israel itself is the closing shot of the museum.

Undeniably, the Holocaust has a grip on the heart and memory of the Jewish people. But another response is to remember that it is not our only story and can not be our defining characteristic. Coming to Israel is a kind of pilgrimage inasmuch as it condenses into a short space and time almost everything about Jewish life, history and identity. One of our teens, Gabrielle, got that message just a day or two before we visited Yad VaShem.  After meeting students at Yemin Orde, seeing the treasure of exhibits at the Israel museum and learning about every other aspect of Jewish life, she said it simply, “We are not all about the Holocaust.” It is never to be forgotten and never to be repeated, whatever the cost.  But remembering it shall not be everything we are. A trip to Israel is one of the best ways to see that we are about so much more (just look at another high point in this photo).

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